Jan 25

Installation of composite (plastic ) stock and fore-end for shotguns

We will focus on the installation of a composite buttstock and forend shotguns, combination rifle and shotgun, with separate butt and forend.

Stable weapons, technically serviceable: the whole trunks upavshaya no straps, no shata, a buttstock with forend, no unnecessary backlash and clearances in the joints of “iron” and of the stock forend.

The issue is faulty hardware is as versatile as the issue of training and requires separate consideration. Not everyone has the skill and ability to repair hardware, in addition there are legal restrictions.

If there are no gaps and parasitic gaps in the joints of the hardware and the stock/forearm, then in any time in the shot Shoe will transfer the recoil momentum is always the same in the stock and into the shooter’s shoulder. And firmly seated with the hardware the forearm, at the same time provide the same force/reaction hand on the barrel (very strongly it is noticeable on rifled weapons). This is the case if we have no gaps where it is not necessary.

The situation is reversed. Available backlash will increase over time, eventually contribute to mechanical deformation of the joint areas of iron and butt (forearm to a lesser degree) until the destruction of the butt (forearm), and sometimes deformation of metal parts (usually fasteners or subtle elements). Often in serial rifles (especially those made in our time) the issue of fit stock and fore-end is given very little attention or just put the butt without trimming/precipitation.

Our goal is to make the mounting hardware correctly, warned of the consequences. Backlash/clearance may not be noticeable with a simple swing of the butt. The methods of installation that will be described below, are applicable not only to composites but also to the tree. The tree is susceptible to deformation and cracking due to humidity changes and temperature. Because there is no guarantee that the wooden stock or handguard mounted, therefore, will serve for some time.

the installation Steps:

Pre-fitting in the paint on a very thin layer if the contact area in the region of 70%, then you can leave as is and fit for this place not to. But I recommend to do as written below.

If the stock/handguard does not get in place, it is a gradual removal of excess material before light play. I try to do my composite rifle butts and fore-end with a small reserve (if necessary) on material removal. Otherwise, if all stood right with a slight backlash, when “freshening” of the places of pairing (removing a small layer of material to obtain a surface without traces of oil, sweat and other contaminants) for bedding appear too large gap, difficult to work.

If the gaps are great, refreshed by the mating surfaces and do the “Bedding”. This overseas word has come to us from the US where, so for decades mounted rifle butts, boxes. I want to note that this was on the mass rifles Elk, bars, even those of the Soviet Union, and sports rifles. As sometimes happens, what you were doing earlier, now comes to us from abroad like new.

The essence of bedding, to IDEALNY cast point/transfer of recoil momentum from the “iron” in the composite. And we need to cast it YOUR iron!!!

Why her? Because the tolerances in the manufacturing (metal processing) has not been canceled, and sometimes these tolerances are reached, appears to be millimeters (I have seen such specimens). Therefore it is not necessary to take a new plastic/composite stock and just put on their “iron” without checking the planting density and gaps. The buttstock and forend, standing on one rifle, you should not swap with another of the same, without checking for a snug fit. You cannot buy the stock, the box is already beddingham not… sell sell of course, but this is nonsense… With high probability, be necessary to fit a draught, bedding under a new “iron”. Of course there’s a chance that the tolerances that were in the production of “hardware” will allow to do the lottery…

For example, the combined rifle CZ-458 view what, where and how to do it.

photo cz458

Photo taken at the butt, the visible contact of wood with the socket/ hardware. The contact patch is decent, at the factory everything was done in the mind. If things did not suit me, I would have sanded the plane of contact on the tree. Caused the wax to the iron (so it is not stuck) on the surface of the butt in order not to mess with epoxy resin. Struck epoxy composition on a sanded surface and would gather the “iron” butt. Would “dry up” the epoxy is a minimum day. Back disassembled and cleaned, then sanded the resin from the places where they are sticking out on the tree, well pads would have cleaned it, the resin can get into the mechanism, which is not good.

photo

photo

You need to make sure that there is clearance for the shanks of the pads, literally of 0.5-1mm (can use regular feeler gauges from auto stores) to the shanks as wedges/axes not chopping the butt. Not working on butt, trying to crack him.

photo

photo

The fore-end. Look at the contact patch of the hardware and the response of the forearm. If not satisfied, then do the same butt and achieve that metallic parts inside the forearm was also sitting tight.